Those of you who follow our Instagram account may have seen our post about the anatomy of a ring, which explains the various components that make up a ring. Understanding these different elements is essential to selecting the right combination-based on your stone and design.
You can see from the image above that the centre stone sits at the top of the ring; in the information below, we will look at some of the main settings you can choose from. When looking into the different settings you can choose from to set centre stones, you will come across hundreds of options and terms and styles, such as cathedral-mounted, tension and prong settings etc. Using the right setting is key to design as it can help to accentuate a stone. There are many different kinds of settings that can be used, and this blog post will introduce you to some of them.
Claw/Basket Setting
The claw setting is the most common type of setting; it consists of individual metal prongs that surround the stone and bend over it slightly to support it. There are many styles of prongs, including round, claw, talon (could have two prongs at each point), double, and split. Basically, a basket setting is a claw setting with a basket at its base; the basket is designed so that the pavilion (or bottom section of the stone) fits firmly inside. In order to provide protection and security, they usually consist of four to twelve claws that sit equally around the girdle of the stone. The basket design provides support for the vertical prongs, adding extra structure and strength while letting light shine through it.
Trellis Setting
When viewed from above, a trellis setting looks like any other setting, but when viewed from the side, it is extremely detailed. This setting is characterized by its intertwined and overlapping prongs creating a distinctive ‘x’ shape. Adding interwoven prongs to a classic prong setting adds a little extra design, and the diamond is supported in turn by these prongs.
Peg Head Setting
This type of centre setting has prongs that meet in the shank in a ‘V’ shape, which lift the stone above the ring. As the setting sits higher, it is a beautiful design when paired with a wedding band.
Cathedral Setting
This style of setting features a central stone that is flanked by arches of metal that come up from the shank. This structure secures the centre stone in place and gives it a distinctive profile while also creating what looks like a basket on the underside of the ring.
Bezel (rub over) Setting
This style of setting is one of the most protective styles of setting. It is when a thin layer of metal sits surrounding the stone, protecting it from all sides. You can also get bezel settings that surround part or most of the stone; these are known as partial or semi-bezels. One of the biggest downsides of this style of setting is that it can make the stone seem smaller.
Tension Setting
The tension setting is a ring setting that uses compression to hold a centre, diamond or gemstone in place. This makes the stone appear as if it’s floating between two pieces of metal or within the band itself.
Illusion Setting
This style of setting creates the illusion that the diamond is significantly larger and ‘squarer’ than it is. A style of ring that is often associated with retro and mid-century engagement rings. Their popularity is attributed to the fact that they offer significant protection while maximizing the size of the diamond.
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